Bosnia

Sarajevo

Croatia wraps around Bosnia so we had to enter Croatia, stopping for a passport check, and then enter Bosnia later with another passport check. On the way we would stop at a convenient place to pull a bus off on and have a picnic lunch along side the bus. Our hosts (Anna Maria, our bus driver and his wife) set up a table and served ham and cheese sandwiches along with some schnapps and wine. We were happy people – lucky as well, for as soon as we re-boarded the bus it started to rain.
It was a little slow getting through the border between Croatia and Bosnia. There were two border checks. The second border required our guide to write all the names of our group on a piece of paper despite the fact that we had a computer generated list already prepared for them. Strange.

Entered Sarajevo and arrived at our hotel about 6 pm. Ramona and I had been to Sarajevo 30 years prior and were looking forward to a better visit. Our trip in 1985, one year after that city hosted the Winter Olympics, our guide then just showed us empty stadiums and the all important housing that was built for participant but soon provided to citizens who had been waiting years for available housing.

This time around - little more to get excited about. Our hotel experience was less than great. Our pre-arranged 7 pm buffet dinner was postponed until 8 pm because of a wedding party. Then we were told that we would not have a buffet but would order off the menu. (not a nice thing to do to a tour director). Then, upon entering the dining room, it was so smoky from cigarettes that we could not tolerate it. So – we all went off our own ways and found restaurants that might appeal to us. Some were pleased – others not. There is no more to say about Sarajevo. Too bad.

Mostar

Although Sarajevo is the Capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Mostar has been the unofficial capital of the southern region of Herzegovina.

Mostar first appeared in the 15th century when a small settlement began to form around a wooden bridge suspended on chains, on the left bank of the River Neretva. Its name is probably rooted in the word "Mostar" (a bridge guard). In 1566 the "Stari Most" stone bridge was opened to travellers and merchants. The Old Bridge, as it is popularly called, served many purposes throughout its 400-year life. Most memorably, it served as a point from which the city youth dove into the green waters below and thus showed off their courage and perhaps made few coins from on-lookers and picture-takers. One of its last roles was to aid Muslim defenders of the "left bank" cross the river and take supplies from and to their supporters and people whom they defended. Its very last role was to enrage and sadden immeasurably all its many admirers upon its death by fire in November 1993. It withstood many centuries, but it could not survive concentrated effort to demolish it. You might care to read what I wrote about this beautiful bridge after out first visit - CLICK HERE

Upon our arrival, about five blocks from where the, now restored, bridge stands, we departed our bus, the sun shining brightly. The bus could get us no closer. As we strolled to our destination, the sun sank behind dark clouds, the skies opened in torrents of rain and we were but a block from the site I wanted so much to see once again. We forged on. We stopped to purchase a two dollar umbrella for six dollars. We reached the bridge, took a couple of pictures, and were encouraged to head back to the bus by our guide. I resisted, asking that we just wait a few minutes to see if the rain would subside. "No - we must go" said our frustrated guide. We trudged back, soaked to the bone, got on the bus. Before we could even reach our seats - the rains stopped and the sun shone bright. Someone asked if we could possibly return to the bridge but "No - there is no more time" she was told.

Thankfully I still have the wonderful memories of my experience in this lovely town in 1985. You might care to read about the history of the old bridge "Stari Most" as I described it then. http://www.doughall.us/yugo/yugostar.htm

At our next hotel we would all spend some time taking showers, hanging up wet clothing and using hair dryers in an attempt to dry our walking shoes.

Looking forward to Dubrovnik.