Cuba 2019

For over 50 years my intentions were that my next trip would be to Cuba. 52 countries later, I finally stepped on the shores of an island only 90 miles from my own countries Shores.

Tues-Wed
We began our journey by, first flying into Miami Florida where we spent time exploring the island of Miami beach for a pair of days. Having not been to Miami before, it was an opportunity to spend a little time in the land of many Cuban expats.

Thursday
Then to board our wonderful Viking cruise ship and maneuver the hallways that would, eventually, discover our cabin, an exercise I never got used to finding on the first turn, We found a nicely appointed and comfortable abode to rest our bones.

And, soon the ship, ever so gently, swayed its way out to sea toward a world so close, yet so far from our own.

Friday
We sailed the Caribbean the next day getting to know our boat, experiencing wonderful foods and, of course, having martinis. That first night our group of eight, and another couple we invited to join us, had a marvelous dinner at the private dining room of the Chefs Table Restaurant. Reservations required, the Restaurant provide their private room to our large group. The five-course dinner was delicious, and interesting, and I am incapable of describing any of the courses.

Saturday
After a day at sea, we could see the Cuban shores at the city of Cienfuegos. Here we would be at port relying on coach transportation to see us to the cities of Trinidad and then Havana over the next two days.This day we were transported by boats to shore where we were led to coaches that would bring us to the city of Trinidad.

Sunday
Then the day I had waited 50 years for – Havana.
Having not been to Havana before, and the primary reason for the journey, I choose to pay for the optional 12 hour trip to Havana from Cienfuegos.
it’s a long drive to Havana. About three and a half hours each direction, almost all of which is on a road paved like the waves of the ocean. The drive itself, though, was fascinating. After all, what other opportunities do you have to take a drive clear across the Cuban countryside, from the southern shores of the island nation to its northernmost reaches? A quick stop at a rest station about halfway through the drive allowed guests to use the washrooms and purchase a cup of coffee or do a bit of souvenir shopping.

After arrival in Havana, lunch was served at a local paladar, or restaurant. Nestled into the suburbs, away from the bustle of the city’s more touristic historic center, our relaxing meal was served consisting of a stir fry like dish, rice and beans - and a dessert. One drink was provided complimentary, which included bottled water, wine, beer, or soft drinks. My advice: grab a bottle of water from the coach as you disembark and use your free drink for a soft drink or alcoholic beverage.
Following lunch, guests were treated to a panoramic city tour – but we wouldn’t be needing the coaches. Instead, guests piled into several parked 1950’s-era American cars, lovingly restored, for an open-air cruise through the city.

Havana was cold and rainy that day. The cold wind caused waves to crash upon the walls built at the ocean front as we drove by. Spray from violent water thrashing against those walls created large sprays of freezing waters to find its way to our open air vehicles.

Our ride ended where it began. We reentered our coaches and found our way downtown where we disembarked for a walking tour where one building might be crumbling. One might be under repair, while another still has been restored to its former glory.

Of course, time was made for a quick, 30-minute stop at the Almacenes San Jose, or the San Jose Artisan’s Market. I’ll be honest: I’m not a shopper. I could have skipped this stop, especially considering that there’s really nothing terribly artisanal about this market, which features rows of dimly-lit stalls all selling the same wares. Worse, the market is one of the few places in Cuba that has adopted the same high-pressure, aggressive sales tactics found in other parts of the Caribbean. There’s nothing dangerous about it (the Cubans are really friendly, but they can be persistent as well), yet I just didn’t enjoy it.

Back in our coach, we began the grueling and long journey back to our Viking Star ship in Cienfuegos. On board again, the most appropriate thing to do was to have a martini and go to bed. Another day is ahead.

Monday
On Monday we had our last chance to discover the beauty of the city who had hosted us for three days. Here we spent the day exploring Cienfuegos with our local guide. One of Cuba’s most authentic and well-preserved cities, Cienfuegos (meaning “100 Fires”) was settled in 1819 by the French who had made their way here from both their homeland and from their settlements in Louisiana. Soon, the town was booming with the activity of merchants exporting sugar, tobacco and coffee; their riches helped to build a city infused with the spirit of France and its other overseas territories. A grid of straight streets, graceful fountains and symmetrical colonnades carry hints of our visit to New Orleans just two years prior.

Tuesday

Disappointment day followed. Winds so high this day that our ship could not safely reach the shore. We were to take a tour of Santiago, thought to be the most beautiful city on the island. A judgment by our captain that it was just too dangerous to attempt transport to shore, was certainly the right choice.
Had a nice day inside visiting, eating, and reading. But going out on the deck, the wind was so intense that it could have blown you over the rail. Stayed inside all day and enjoyed the feeling of drunkedness as we tried to traverse the halls of our teetering ship. A dinner at the World Cafe (buffet), a little music by Anastasia in the atrium lounge and then an early visit to our bed.

Wednesday
And now, a journey towards our homeland. With new insights it seems the spirit of the Cuban people are in great shape. It shows in their physical surroundings.
While Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) boasts stunning colonial and early-20th-century architecture, such charmed scenes clash with the main, tattered fabric of Cuban life. Across the country, horse-drawn wagons serve as commercial transport along potholed dirt and asphalt roads. Underfed dogs wander in search of food by day. Rusted sheet metal separates single-family dwellings in some neighborhoods.

Random blocks of prewar-style apartment buildings in Havana look as if they’d just been through an air raid — caved-in roofs, chipped plaster revealing brick walls, grass and weeds taking root atop. One wonders whether they’ve had any maintenance at all since La Revolucion took the city in 1959.

Under state socialism there is essentially no private ownership of assets: buildings, cars, even horses and cattle. This inevitably reduces individual incentives to take good care of these things, yet it is impractical for a single entity (the government) to manage them all. Individuals forbidden to keep the fruits of their particular labors see little reward (and sometimes no opportunity) for spreading one’s wings, creating new enterprises, and new wealth for themselves and their country.

State-operated media means journalists can’t fully and critically cover the government. Nor can citizens express discontent or organize for change.

In exchange for all these sacrifices of freedom, Cubans enjoy universal education and universal health care, and a belief that all people are equal. If theirs were the only nation on Earth, things in Cuba might seem fine. Trouble is, many of those who haven’t been OK with this trade-off have found a way to leave, despite severe emigration restrictions. And those who have departed have tended to be the ones responsible for technological and economic development, which built the universally available medical and educational institutions.

Innovators left Cuba for countries kinder to their dreams, while their home country’s policies froze society in time. Alongside horses clopping down city streets in Cuba, you see enough classic cars to think you’re at the Back to the ’50s Car Show at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds.

I do love this retro aspect of Cuba, though. Cuba has widened the door for tourists in recent years to cope with economic struggle. But this flow of outside wealth disrupts the local economy as it comes ashore.

Created as a collective society, Cuba’s freedom and material wealth suffer. But community and equality shine. Wealth disparity is minimal. National, cultural pride radiates. I’ve never felt safer in a developing nation; I never even heard a story about street crime. Homelessness is rare.

Meanwhile, seeing Cuban totalitarianism challenged in 2018 also helped reveal that today there are new forces and possibilities creating new ways to potentially bring together individualism and community.

Whether it’s the slowly growing cracks in the Cuban system or the turmoil in our own government, I’m left hopeful that the political struggles of modern times will be overcome through a billion people performing a billion small acts, working together in ways more efficient and beneficial to the world.