To be Argentine is to Tango. To Tango as an Argentine you must visit the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires. In the heart of all this magnetism lies the Mansion Dandi Royal Hotel.

The dream of Hector Villalba , a renowned tango teacher, the Dandi is a elegant structure abundantly fitting for the class and style that Tango commands. The Cassullo family first owned this structure as a hotel, then it became a bordello, then a place for Army Corporals to hang out in. Finally Mr. Villalba acquired this 1903 mansion, keeping its architectonical style and renovated it into a wonderful five star tango hotel.

Truly the Dandi is a haven for anyone who yearns for a glimpse of the Argentine soul. The only problem is that the movements of my legs do not obey the artistry of my intent. I can move to and fro reasonably well but anything more complicated and my exceptional sense of rhythm begins to snag under my heels.

In the basement of the Dandi is a springy, twenties style room with a wooden dance floor. Cane tables and chairs line the large expanse. Here is where Kathy, Ramona and I had our forty-five minute Tango dance lesson. Whoever said, 'Dance is a delicate balance between perfection and beauty' had never seen me shuffle to Tango CD’s. So, for me, attending a tango lesson in the epicenter of the dance's homeland is a challenge. We follow the steps and I get into the rhythm of it: there's something comfortable about its stilted imperfection, a little perverse; a little romantic.

After the lesson, Maria, a friend of Kathy’s and an accomplished Tango dancer herself, accompanied us to a staged room of the hotel where we could be introduced to the Tango - danced the way it was intended. Perched on stage were a trio of refined old men playing piano, concertina, and guitar. Our instructors performed dance styles from the earlier languid drooping eyelid, tight trouser, pointed leather shoe 1900’s to the present glorious free style. 

A bit more energetic than the steps we had learned - I got exhausted just watching them. I slept well that night.